Category Archives: Food Writing

A Travel Anecdote with Coffee

Rachel Roddy My Kitchen in Rome Before arriving in Italy I hadn’t drunk coffee for several years, for several reasons, none of which are particularly interesting. I returned to coffee-drinking with a ristretto in a noisy bar near Napoli airport … Continue reading

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On Polenta

Marcella Hazan The Classic Italian Cookbook Japan meets Italy. When the polenta was done, there was a moment of joy as it was poured out in a steaming, golden circle on the beechwood top of the madia, a cupboard where … Continue reading

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Scrambled: Editorial Slip and Delicious Irony

In Episode 46 in The French Chef Cookbook, Julia Child brings us “Elegance with Eggs”. She offers recipes for Oeufs en cocotte à la crème (eggs baked in ramekins), Oeufs mollets (molded [?] eggs), Oeufs sur le plat (shirred eggs), … Continue reading

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The How and What

Madhur Jaffrey Introduction An Invitation to Indian Cooking Sometimes, as you glance at a couple of recipes, the spices used might look identical, which may lead you to the conclusion that the two dishes will taste the same. But that’s … Continue reading

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Discarded from a Renga

flour scattered kneaded shaped dusted and slashed open handed touch to cheek- brushed wheat-dust baked broken devoured And so for day 2914 04.12.2014

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Allusive Hyperbole

Around the corner from Proust’s madeleine The ultimate nursery food is beef tea; I have not had it since I was a child, and although I could easily have brewed myself a batch, I never have yet. I am afraid … Continue reading

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What makes a meal?

David Tanis “What makes a meal?” A Platter of Figs and Other Recipes As in music or poetry, a well-composed menu must have a pleasant sequence — something sprightly to begin, then a main course with more depth, and something … Continue reading

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Eschew perfection. Strive for excellence.

Thomas Keller The French Laundry Cookbook When you acknowledge, as you must, that there is no such thing as perfect food, only the idea of it, then the real purpose of striving toward perfection becomes clear: to make people happy, … Continue reading

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Geography Rhymes With Biology

Waverley Root The Food of Italy A memorable sentence with a beautifully striking simile: Perugia lies sprawled out over its mountains like a drunken amoeba. Set in its paragraph: Everywhere one comes suddenly and unexpectedly on open terraces affording far-raging … Continue reading

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Picnic Spread

Alain Le Foll illustrator. French Favourites (1969) Two page spread from a small (67 p. ; 15 cm.) but enticing cookbook. Many of the illustrations like the recipes themselves open expansive spaces beyond the borders of the page. And so … Continue reading

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