Category Archives: Food Writing

WHAM

Consider Gussie’s lines from the 1948 movie Mr. Blandings Builds His Dream House — it’s her culinary and linguistic creativity that saves the day. I’ve seen the movie; I now want to read the novel to see if the key … Continue reading

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Culinary Periodization

Introduction James Beard’s American Cookery It should be apparent that this not a book of regional cookery, it is not a collection of family recipes, it is not primarily a critique of American cuisine. It is simply a record of … Continue reading

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Crack, Beat, Cook, Exaggerate

I like the contrasting and complementary colours on the front and back of the dust jacket… Soufflés, Quiches, Mousses and the Random Egg Our amusement continues inside. George Bradshaw supplies an anachronism to make a recipe memorable in the section … Continue reading

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Slow Start Superb Finish

Familiar to anyone who has diced vegetables for mirepoix or simply sweated sliced onions… battuto e soffritto Battuto, literally ‘beaten’, in a culinary context means chopped so fine as to appear pounded. A battuto, consisting traditionally of chopped pork fat … Continue reading

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Representation of a Representation

Helen Guri Match Delectable opening of “After ‘Still Life Fast Moving’” — a most superb food fight albeit one served up as a slide show: In some pictures, objects come alive and the living are objects. Picture, for example, a … Continue reading

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Searching for the Origin of Sugar Bones

I bought bones for soup and found them labelled as sugar bones. My search as to the origin of the name netted no online explanation beyond an inkling of a Yiddish connection: Tziker is Yiddish for sugar. You bought sugar … Continue reading

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Casting Upon the Waters

From Breadcraft Charles and Violet Schafer (San Francisco: Yerba Buena Press, 1974) Ways of lobbying: p. 13 Members of American Women Already Richly Endowed, opposing equal rights amendments for women, made gifts of homemade bread to influence Ohio legislators. They … Continue reading

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Sumptuous

This description immediately calls to mind a rich and unctuous guacamole. stupendous impasto Well it does in the context of the poem by Michele Leggott (“Deluge in a Paper Cup”) in Swimmers, Dancers irresistible its knifepoint forever breaking the skin … Continue reading

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What is sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander

If you are in search of the authentic … and not to be put off by purists … Soy sauce, an extract of soya beans, is not commonly used in India. Elsewhere, however, many Indian homes use it for cooking … Continue reading

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Michael Anthony on Quince

V is for Vegetable: Inspired Recipes & Techniques for Home Cooks- from Artichokes to Zucchini Each section of this alphabetically arranged book begins with a quotation and illustration. “Quince, in my book, is an honorary vegetable.” — Michael Anthony, V … Continue reading

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